Kathmandu’s Domestic Airport

Does it have a name?

Let’s see .. so about 4 times I think I flew out of it last year; and not one time was the fly on the scheduled departure time that was mentioned on the ticket; not because of bad weather on either of To and From but because of poor time management on the part of the airline I had traveled with.

Ever-increasing air traffic in the skies above the valley in the last few years may have a lot to do with most flights not making good on time. And it’s not lost on anyone that our airport is no Suvarnabhumi. So instead of making excuses wherein the blame is easy to aim towards all that is not up to operating standards, airlines – why not prepare your departure timings taking into consideration also the sorry infrastructure of our airport?

What I just said, I’d have said it also if my flight had gotten delayed this morning and that after being at the airport all day, I could still have flown out of town. Didn’t happen because my flight got cancelled due to bad weather down in Bhadrapur. While the world out there has endless problems and someone could use always use an extra hand, I’ve got nothing better to do than complain.

But wait, there’s more.

Woke up in the wee hours of the morning on a gully – not for the first time. A dog was barking at my drunk self. What is it with dogs and drunks anyway? I recognized the dog as the stray but friendly neighborhood dog. Well, every weekday morning when I go to work, he is friendly and in good spirits. In the evenings when I get back from work, he is mostly curled up with himself at one specific bend in the gully.

As it gradually dawned on me then, I was on that specific bend – this dog’s favorite spot. I had, in my inebriated state, occupied this dog’s space. Why would I do that when home was only a stone’s throw away from this spot? That, I’ll never know.

I once went out with my friend and his date who had also brought along her friend – a pro psychologist! When we hang out again, this is one work-related (for her) topic I’m bringing up. I’ll find a way to keep you guys posted on the diagnosis.

Anyway, so after this self-realization, I did what every drunk worth his salt would do – I yielded to the dog. As I got up and gathered my mind and my self, the dog immediately quieted down and in a hurry rightfully reclaimed his territory. His home. Too bad I couldn’t find mine. I smiled to him and even patted him as if to say sorry. I’d like to believe he forgave me.

After not sleeping enough, I went to the airport to catch my flight in the morning. The cab-driver went: “Hijo ta beskari peliye jasto cha ni dai? Hehehe ..” despite me feasting on a handful of Happy Dents. “Pudina khanus, ausadhi pasal ma paucha ..”

In the airport, everyone from the cop at the security check to the Buddha Air rep at the counter to the tax-man at the ‘bank’ found out about my alcohol consumption the night before. My head was starting to hurt. Nah .. let me rephrase that – my head wanted its own country .. it was staging a revolt.

After having dal-bhaat-tarkari at the over-priced and under-maintained restaurant inside the airport, I went down to the ‘health station’ and asked for help.

Lady at the ‘health station’: “Key bhayo dai?”

I: “Hijo raksi dherai khaye . sarai tauko dukhyo. Malai kehi dinus na.”

Lady: “Thikka po khana parcha ta! Ajha nakhaye ta jhan nai ramro.”

I: “Ho tyo ta ,, khada ta thikka nai lageko thiyo – - ailey chai teti saro laagirako chaina .. hehe.”

Lady: “Kata jana lagnu bhayo?”

I: “Bhadrapur.”

Lady: “Tapai ko naam?”

I: “Kina naam chahiyo?”

Lady: “Ramro naam chaina ki kya ho dai ko? Khit khit ..”

I: “Hoina .. aba tauko dukheko ausadhi lina ko laagi naam kina chahincha?”

I told her my name.

I: “Mailey dhaateko pani ta huna sakcha ni naam ..”

Lady (smiling): “Hoina hola dhateko. Raksi dherai khaye pani manchey ta thik nai lagnuhuncha Hahah ..”

That cheered me up.

Lady: “Umer ni?”

What?

I: “Kina umer? Kati garo bhanya euta ausadhi lina ta yahan ..”

Lady: “Budheskaal lagyo ki kya ho dai lai? Hahaha ..”

I told her my age.

I: “Mero ghar ko address, pita, mata ko naam, phone number, nagarikta number pani chahincha ki?”

Lady: “Hahahaha .. hoina teti bhaye huncha .. linus ausadhi adhi ghanta ma niko huncha.”

Lady: “Ani arkopaali bata dherai Raksi na khanu ..”

After about an hour, the headache began to subside. I started feeling a bit better. They announced over that annoying loudspeaker that my flight was delayed. They delayed the announcement too. Sometime late in the afternoon, they told us the flight was cancelled due to bad weather in Bhadrapur.

There went the day and with it, a potential lost nap in the sun.

Trying again tomorrow. By whatever means, I have to leave town anyhow tomorrow if I’m to catch the train from Siliguri the day after. Which means – to the 9 of you who take the time out of your schedules to come over here and read what I come up with, see you around the second week of next month.

Trishuls And Oranges

Travelling on a city-bus on a Saturday – and this was नेपाल यातायात, is like going to a club on a Tuesday – the floor is all yours; in the case of the bus, you pretty much get to pick and choose any seat you like. I picked the one somewhere in the middle – as far away from any life as possible so that I could enjoy the comfort of some space while viewing faces and places hissing by.

Not for long, would last that comfort because once the bus entered Baluwatar, the last person you’d expect in Baluwatar – a Sadhu, got on and sat his saffron-robed, Trishul-carrying self on the last seat you’d expect – right next to mine and with a grunt that stank funny; I was appreciative that he didn’t request me for the window seat to timely spit out whatever the hell he was chewing; or if he had had, I don’t know if I would have chosen to sit me on a different non-attached seat altogether because, well, I’d never before shared a seat with a Sadhu.

The Sadhu seemed comfortable in his aisle seat – his Trishul occupying the area where there’d be legs on a non-Bandhed weekday in Kathmandu. He held the Trishul with his right hand and held, not the head-rest of the seat directly in front of him for support, but did so to the seat directly in front of me. One of my claustrophobic friends, by this time, would’ve been gasping for air. Not me. My unflappable self was fascinated by the Trishul.

Where did he get it from anyway? I’d never before looked at a Trishul in its practicality, this close. It was nothing that would’ve made Shiva do another Tandav but it was not your daddy’s Trishul either.

This Trishul the ascetic was parading around town with, ladies and gents, did however complement his denser than char-koshey-jhaadi beard like the Bhadgauley Topi does to BRB’s mustache which, by the way, looks like it was donated to him by a retired professional Marriage player who had only just recently made the life altering decision to change career to becoming a Jyotishi.

I mean, his beard, and I would bet my गुलेली on this one, would induce Ram Dev to go into hiding.

When do you decide you need to get a Trishul? Or is the decision solely dependent upon your peers who Make you? If the case here is the former, do you like get up, brush your teeth, drink your tea, clip your toe-nails while listening to the radio, wash your feet, and head on into town to get yourself a brand new Trishul? Or do they come pre-owned?

“This one’s reached as far as Burma .. when the great Sadhu ‘Chinta Mani’ came back, he’d fetched millions .. he’s now gotten married to the movie star Sefali Humagain … ” said the pre-owned Trishul salesman; I was heading on over to a different world …

As the bus skidded so as not to kill a Traffic cop, I woke up to not find my Sadhu anymore. He was gone – couldn’t ask him about my dreams.

Towards the end of the day, I got to Gaushala. I was hungry but did need to buy suntalas. I normally do so at the phalphool pasaley in Old Baneshwore Chowk. Since I didn’t want to walk 5 more minutes, I decided to give some business to some of my other neighbors.

I: “Dai, yo suntala kasto cha?”

Dai: “Yek dum theek cha.”

I: “Tyo arko label bhako pani suntala nai ho?”

Dai: “Yekdum ley ho!”

I: “Kun mitho cha ta?”

Dai: “Dubai nai Yekdum sita ley Yekdum mitho cha.”

I: “Tapai ma bhaye Yekdum sita ley kun kinnu hunthyo?”

Dai: “Hmmphhh .. aba tyo ta Yedum nai garo cha bhanna. Yo Yekdum sita ley ‘label’ lagayeko India bata ayeko, arko ta Nepali ho.”

Guy-on-a-muda-taaping-the-ghaam-right-by-the-shop: “Bhai .. yo India ko ta gazzzzab kai cha hai!”

I had a feeling this muda-guy would carry his muda and go back to his house once the Sun was gone. I kind of wanted to find out if he would but I had, of course, a life to live.

In a fix, I was. The Nepali orange looked a bit .. ‘beat up’ compared to the Indian one which was as smooth as Bidhya Balan’s hips. And it had a label also. The Nepali one didn’t have any label and it reminded me of Bhuwan K.C’s chest.

Dammit!

I: “Lu na ta tesobhaye .. adhi kilo Nepali dinus, adhi kilo Indian.”

Dai: “Yekdum sita ley dinchu.”

He charged me NRS 80 – NRS 10 more than my guy in Purano Baneshwore would’ve.

Once I got home, I started to peel off the bokra off of the Indian suntala. It didn’t peel like a suntala at all. A real suntala peels like you’re taking off a woman’s kurta that has running zippers in the back (if she lets you that is). This Indian suntala was peeling as if the woman was wearing a kurta with a lock combination of the Nepal Rastra Bank’s dhikuti (if she lets you that is).

My cousin came up to pick me up a while later. Turns out, I was fooled into buying a Junaar. And here I thought I could differentiate in between the two like the sun and the moon. O the subtle differences!

On ‘Telling A Tale’

“It’s not that far beta .. okay, I’ll carry you. Hear that horn? It’s calling us so we have to hurry beta else mommy will be late ..”

Something along these lines from my mother is one of my earliest memories; another being, blowing fog from my mouth in Gangtok with my cousins.

To teach Nepali at a high school, 6 days a week, early in the morning, my mother used to travel to the little Terai town of Duhabi from a different city – Biratnagar. This was 80s in Nepal .. there were no scooties and no micros. She had to take the bus going to Dhankuta (the bus was an ‘Express’ – it made the fewest and the quickest stops) from Biratnagar.

My mother’s commute was thus: 15 minutes walk to the Biratnagar bus-stop from our dera, 30 minutes ride to Duhabi, another 10 minutes walk to the school and back. 110 minutes (or thereabouts) of commute back-and-forth. I’ve retraced those steps and the ride itself a couple of times after I ‘grew up’.

When my mother carried me, her bosom was the most comfortable resting area ever. When she held my hand when we walked, her hands provided me with security that BRB would envy. When she smiled to me, I lit up. When she fed me, I ate with glee. When she sometimes had to fight with the Conductors over inconsistent fares, I voiced my displeasure to the Conductors via heart-piercing shrills of a stereotypical Nepali cry-baby.

Now, mother is ailing. Infections wreak havoc in her urinary tract. She’s been on medication for the better part of last half-year. But you know what? Her work still reins over everything. She wants to be there everyday despite the disease which thank god is not life threatening but requires constant monitoring.

She’s worked all her life, my mother. Her continuous strive for independence (financial, social, etc.) has led to her current state of mind. That draw for independence had stemmed from her background and the setbacks she had suffered due to already-in-place Nepali social conventions having paved the path she was expected to trek on for the remainder of her life – whether she had liked it or not. Yes to marriage, no to education.

Despite the slight punctuation, my mother wouldn’t back down. My father’s liberal upbringing and thought – also Ilamey, provided her with more than enough latitude to where she could pursue her aspirations of becoming an independent Nepali woman. She did. Still is.

This flashback about my mother was what I was reminded of when I read through a few wonderful write-ups by Nepali women in the book “Telling A Tale”. Archana Thapa, whom I’ve heard speak a couple of times in a few events, has done an excellent service to the world of Nepali literature by bringing out voices of Nepali women spanning a significant array of backgrounds.

Reading through this book, I learnt quite a lot about women, and well, also about myself – in one particular instance. I’ve been blessed with knowing some strong Nepali women in my life. Besides my mother and my sister, I’ve had the fortune of having spent some quality time with the strongest of women in my friendships and past relationships.

Those relationships, I still recount almost everyday to myself and despite not having seen at least one of them through to the end, they are moments lapsed in time I’m still inspired by. Those women were strong, I was not. They were sincere, I was shallow. They had balls of steel, I had balls made of cotton (now there’s a poem!).

I had walked to Thamel from Baluwatar yesterday for two reasons:

1. to locate one particular homeless kid to ask him if he’d been to any restaurants lately (long story – will state in another post – here’s something related)

2 – to buy that latest from Manjushree Thapa

1 didn’t happen and before I got to 2 in Pilgrims’, I ran across this gem of a book: ‘Telling A Tale’. After I quickly read one write-up, I wondered how in the world could I have missed this book up until now. I eventually bought both.

Taking in the warm sun Kathmandu received this afternoon and nibbling on suntalas and also throwing in some of the best naps I’ve taken in the last year somewhere in between, I read through most of the down-to-earth and straight-out-of-heart narratives produced by some brilliant Nepali writers of the fairer sex.

And here are the top 10 reasons why you also need to buy this book:

10. If you want to get ahead in Nepal, you need to understand how women think. Why? By the next 15-20 years, watch them turn the tables on us. So this book’s a great head-start. [It's China and women that will rule the upcoming generations.]

9. Whether or not you are a woman, there’s a good chance you may be able to learn something about yourself after reading this book – more so, if you are a Nepali.

8. Do your part to generate some revenue for our Nepali publishers also, will you?

7. This book could be a great gift for Valentine’s Day for your significant other who still thinks (or doesn’t) that getting a job and getting married rightaway will solve all problems of this world. Can we change some ways of this world we live in please? Again, while reading this book, I realized on one instance how it starts with me also.

6. There’s a good chance you will relate to a few voices and specifically what they have to say in this book. My fellow Nepali men, there’s how you get to listen to the other side also.

5. That lady you are trying so hard to impress? Tell her what book you’ve been reading these days after you buy this book. There’s a chance your stock could carry some extra weight.

4. In this book, there are clear, specific instructions on what to call and what not to call women of various shapes and sizes. Take that to heed and see yourself go far.

3. If you missed that ‘piece’ in Himal Southasian a few months ago, Manjushree Thapa candidly talks about her first kiss in this book also.

2. Read this book and see what ideas you get to help men also in this country. If I were a top-notch Nepali man ‘literatus’, I would already start compiling similar write-ups from Nepali men. Not as a token to counter this book, but to add to this brilliant idea of Archana Thapa’s to provide a dose of the other gender also. I have a feeling Nepali women wouldn’t mind that one bit.

1. This book will provide you with that extra boost needed to say sorry – did to me.

Long Distance Relationshipped Strangers

After I get off work, I walk home – takes me about 25 minutes to get there if I don’t make any pit-stops along the way. The pit-stops usually are as follows:

1. Sajilo ‘Departmental’ Store
2. Phalphool pasaley
3. Kabab Chicken Corner/Just Baked (I’ll be posting on both KCC and JB soon)

3.happens on averege 4 times a week but since the kids have gone back to live with their parents, I don’t want to eat alone in the house. So 3. has been 7 for 7 for quite some time now. All of the above mentioned businesses reside in Purano Baneshwore Chowk. I know them and they know me – one of these days I intend to find out if they really love me by asking for credit. Lagyo-ing. Let’s see who loves me the most.

Making my first pit-stop, I greeted Kumar dai at the door before heading towards the aisle that has been a reliable location from which to pick Oat Krunch – Deliciously Fun & Tasty Crackers (Dark Chocolate) since the inauguration of Sajilo. I then noticed a neat stack of new brand of biscuits there that claimed to be ‘sugar free’.

I don’t have diabetes or anything but it’s not a bad idea to cut down on one’s sugar, if one can, I thought. About 3 Oat Krunchs, 1 to 2 chiyas, 3 cups of coffee everyday .. that’s quite a bit of sugar to consume in a day .. right? As I was about to launch into a debate with myself, I heard a guy’s voice from the aisle adjacent to where I was fixing to go cuckoo in my head:

Guy: “लौ! के कुरा गरेको? येस्तो मिठो न मिठो छ ..!”

Girl: “कस्तो बौला केटा होला! यो नक्कली हो क्या? कति भन्नु तिमीलाई त?”

Guy: “ह्या … प्लेबोईको ओरीजिनल सेन्ट हो भन्या यो! दुबईमा पनि पाईँदैन यत्तिको त!”

Girl: “जे पायो त्यै! तिमीले पोहोर मलाई पठाइदिइको त कस्तो रा..म्रो प्याकिङ् थियो – बास्ना त झन् के कुरा गर्नु। यो त प्याकिङ् पनि आचि जस्तो .. बास्ना … खै के बास्ना भन्ने? गन्दपनि आची जस्तो ..!

Guy: “अब त्यो त तिम्रोलागी थियो नि त .. यो त तिम्रो त्यो चरिनङ्ग्रे भाईका लागी पो त – राजेसे नभाको भये हामी कहाँ भेट्थिउँ र!! तर अबको पाली त झन हेर न के के पठाउँछु के के!”

At this point the girl started saying something about she not liking it whenever he makes fun of her brother. By their conversation it appeared that her (younger) brother had a lot to do with them hooking up.

Well, ladies and gentlemen, at this point, I did what every man who doesn’t have much to do after a long day at work would do: I eased my way into their aisle where they were about to launch into a fight and pretended like I couldn’t do without a toothbrush (I ended up buying the damn thing).

The guy was surveying that ‘playboy’ body-spray. His eyes approved of what he was looking at. He shook the canister twice near his ear as if it would belt out Rajesh Payal Rai any second before he sprayed a chsssssssssshhh on his palm. The girl, meanwhile, was frowning like a little girl looking as if her Barbie’s right leg was about to give way.

One of my good friend’s girlfriend is a married woman – yes, not to him – hence, you know, the ‘girlfriend’ title. She’s basically having an extra-marital affair: her husband’s out in the Gulf and hasn’t been home in more than 2 years. So whenever I think of Nepalis working out in the Middle East, I think of my friend and his girlfriend.

They talk every night (I know that because whenever we go out he makes it a point to get to her calls, etc.) – I don’t know if that’s love quite yet but he seems to care about her. So I had for some reason assumed most men working in the Gulf were either married or single. Today, that assumption changed.

These people weren’t married. They didn’t talk like they were married, look like they were married, or act like they were married. My suspicion was confirmed when the girl later had said “हाम्रो बिहेमा मलाई त सिफोनको सारी चाहि्न्छ .. भन्देकि छू अहिलेदेखिनै ..”

I studied the girl – a bit plump with warm eyes, she looked .. understanding and forgiving. She reminded me of Asha – my buddy’s girl who was cheating on her husband – only because they had something in common. This girl here who was trying to get her brother a better perfume didn’t at all look like the cheating type, I thought (and I’m no expert in reading people’s faces and determining whether or not they cheat or are loyal, understanding, etc.).

FYI: It was decided that tomorrow, at Pako, they would find a shop and get her brother a much nicer and a real perfume – राजेश was no fool! He’d know instantly where Pritesh got these .

As I entered the phalphool pasaley‘s joint, he immediately started to vent about how the world was so wrong going gaga over Messi (he’s a Ronaldo fanatic), I turned back to look towards the couple (they were right behind me at the checkout counter in Sajilo) – Sajilo is no more than 30 feet away from the phalphool pasaley. They came out chatting – Pritesh held a plastic bag with one hand and his girl’s the other as they dissapeared into the Purano Baneshwore 7 pm crowd.

Sense Of Entitlement

Your father is my father, your mother – my mother, your brother – my brother, your teacher – my teacher .. but your wife is not my wife and neither is your girlfriend mine; well, depending on who you are (read: Malvika Subba’s boyfriend), I wouldn’t mind having your girlfriend as mine also but I have this funny feeling you would .. O you very much would.

You see, there’s always a line to be drawn somewhere against what’s yours and what’s mine. Your country, if you are a Nepali, is my country also. Your land, of course, is not my land and neither do I want it to be.

Or do I?

During the past week, I got to meet a few interesting people. A man – Tulsi, claimed that the house I live in along with the always paranoid tenants, was his. Why? Well, it was this guy who’d evidently laid the first brick and plastered the first slap of cement over it. Those acts of Firsts and subsequent Ns had seemingly provided him enough authority to stake some claim over the house and confuse the crap out of the tenants.

I had to literally walk Tulsi to the gate over him voicing protests about how my mother would raise a series of serious fits over my ‘agenda’ – he’d actually said the word ‘agenda’. I’d wanted to comment on his choice of word here and would’ve had, had the tenants not been keeping a close eye over this entire weirdness.

And these encroaching businesses in this city! How about BRB wearing the much-needed hat of The Demolition Man? Makes you wonder if anyone else before him knew and if so, why they didn’t crank up the CAT cranes like he has done. And if they didn’t know, why it is that they didn’t. Just because of this oversight on their part, they shouldn’t ever be allowed to serve us.

As for the flag-pole owners of decades past, they’d apparently assumed that it was just okay for them to use the land that didn’t belong to them to build parking lots and even hoist an entire bar .. as in the case of Jazz Upstairs (a fine, fine joint to spend a Friday evening) – and I heard this today so not totally sure if this is true. But if it is, Jazz Upstairs, I hope you somehow procure your लाल पुर्जाs pretty soon – I’d hate to see you go down like this.

Other ‘owners’? Writers on the walls! Nepal Bandhkaaris! The Nepali Police Force – and here’s one little tidbit on them:

I’d hailed a cab in Old Baneshwore to go to Kamaladi one fine evening. A couple of APF wallahs, near Maitidevi Chowk, had stopped the cab I was in, and had let themselves in. Ignoring me, they’d then proceeded to ask the driver to drop them off in Putali Sadak – yeah, just like that!

Fuming over their unacceptable behaviour, I’d let them have it. I’d even asked them to provide their name tags to me so that I could jot down their names and go report them to their bosses in Naxal. They’d gotten off in Dillibazaar’s ukalo, pronto.

We act like we own elements that don’t belong to us because of a perceived leeway we think we are provided by default; and most probably, due to our relation to those elements addiionally fueled by our respective professions or whatever statures we attain due to the businesses we’re in.

For instance, If you are a pedestrian, it’s like you are entitled to use the sidewalk as your own personal Open Air Urinal. If you police traffic at Tinkune Chowk, it’s like you are automatically entitled to a cup of free tea from the nearest chiya-pasal. If you are a Nepal Bandhkaari, the sights of unburned vehicles that do not belong to you, turn you on more than Rekha Thapa’s half-naked posters do. If you are a politician, all you would then need for a fettle of entitlement is – “Do you know who I am?” etc.

I’m not sure where these erroneous sense of entitlements derive from. Is it our culture? Did we grow up thinking we owned everything that we didn’t really own but now we like to assume that we do anyway?

And it’s not like there’s ever a shortage of justification, by the way. I can always say – ” But but .. I’ve run this cafe for more than 20 years right on this spot! How come no one stopped me from building it back then?” Yeah, how about that? Did you do your due diligence back then or did you perhaps overdo it (by showing up on the doorstep of the concerned haakim‘s house – at 8:00 am on a Saturday with two bhaleys swaddled across your belly)?

one

don’t blame me for dreaming
seeing as i see
things for what they cannot be
don’t shoot me for saying
writing as i read
words for what they cannot mean
don’t bar me for trying
this time as i feel
the ticks by which it turns the wheel
the love for which it gets to kneel
the life for which it makes the kill
-
so don’t hate me for feeling
these beats as i play
songs for what they cannot sway
the shades
the shades of color.

नेपाली शब्दकोश

… which means, Nepali Dictionary.

It’s not like there already aren’t a few sites out there that provide services of a Nepali word look up. Except .. the word count on those sites is laughable! We easily have more than 145,000 words in the Nepali language; and I quote an expert here who has over 20 books authored in Nepali. In this day and age when people can tweet from the top of Everest, what a bitter little travesty this is!

Therefore, yours truly felt the need to satisfy this great void of Nepali words in the Internet and came up with Nepali Dictionary – to begin with (O there will be more). There are exactly 71,280 words in the dictionary currently. By the end of next month, I expect the count to reach 80,000 and by the end of this year hit the coveted 140,000.

Yes, the site is cranky, pale, boring, slow (audaciously LOL-ing right about now) and doesn’t let you search .. yet. But hey, you have the very handy auto-suggest feature which should take care of your immediate needs. In due time, I will put a search provision there along with plenty of cool hand-drawn images – you watch! And for heaven’s sake use a 21st century browser like IE8 or above, FF (latest), Chrome (latest), Safari (latest), etc!

If I were using MS technology (which for a long time helped me earn my bread and butter), I’d have put up the nifty little features overnight (yes, bragging!). But after ditching Microsoft in favor of open source technology quite recently, it’s been a challenge to accomplish even the little things – so learning here as I’m yearning here.

By the way, you can get updates on what’s happening with the site as well as Nepali words by subscribing to my blog (in Nepali) at blog.abui.com